Aero Mod: Rear Spoiler

Once again, pictures tell everything.  Only thing different is the need of a blind riveting tool.  

Things needed:

• Long door hinge. Get one as long as the one pictured. $9
• 10 feet of 1/16" steel cable $1.20
• 2 Cable crimps $3
• 8 four hole cabinet corners $5
• 6 two hole cabinet corners, the same one used on the splitter - $5
• 3 feet of flat aluminum rod, 1/8" thick. - $8 
• 4'x7" lexan, 0.93" - you may have to buy an entire 48x36" panel. (I have some leftovers for sale) - $60

Total cost: 91 dollars

Same tools needed as the splitter, but you also need a blind riveting tool.  I used a swivel head riveting tool from harbor freight; it comes with all necessary rivets.


I don't have to say much about this build; Just find center points for everything and mark them!  The tricky part is cutting the lexan and hinge to conform to the trunklid.  Take a piece of cardboard and trim it out until it conforms to the trunklid.  Find center points for the cardboard, lexan, and the trunklid.  When you cut the lexan, the cut won't be perfect so you have to keep trimming and fitting.


To align the spoiler, I measured from leading trunk edge to center, then from lead trunk edge to the ends of the trunk and then drew a straight line between the ends.  To find the correct distance from the rear trunk edge to the spoiler, you have to play around with the lexan at different angles to see what works.  I ended up about 1.25" away from the rear trunk edge.  


Everything on the trunklid gets riveted.  Everything on the lexan gets bolted.  Two two-hole corners need to be mounted onto the trunklid to snug the cable against; but not through it.  Run the wires as I did in the picture.


Also, one side (and only one side, as pictured) of the long hinges need to be cut in 3 to 4 places for it to conform to the trunklid.  Aligning it to the curved edge of the bottom of the lexan panel is difficult, but doable using duct tape. After you do the cuts, tape it to the lexan, drill the holes, then bolt it on.


For adjusting, first use the aluminum flat rods to reposition the spoiler through the holes you drill onto the rod, and then reposition the cable on the trunklid to keep the ends of the spoiler braced.  Note I only needed two points on the trunklid for the cable to tense against; the flex in the spoiler allows me to use each poitn on the trunk for three different positions on the aluminum rod.

The excess holes are from another design I was experimenting with. Be careful; the steel cable merely rests on the posts on the trunklid and does not get routed through the holes.