Roll Bar Camera Mount - Don't be a Sucka!

In preparation of my track event, I decided to make a roll-bar mount. If you've ever shopped for roll bar mounts, you know how expensive they can be. They can range from 30 to 85 dollars. Last year, I played around with an idea for a hobbyist level motorsports video service business. The idea got nowhere and I really cannot say I know anything, but I did realize camera mounts have a very high profit margin. For example, I am currently looking at a brand-name collar mount for a small, lipstick camera on a vendor's website. Price is about 70 dollars (!) The collar can be bought at McMaster-Carr or your local Grainger store, and the swivel mount can be found online. Even at consumer prices, the two components can be ordered individually for less than half the list price of this particular mount. So, I encourage you to try and be resourceful. Many products out there are merely a combination of off-the-shelf parts with a crazy markup.

Some of the more expensive stuff allow a bit more flexibility in the angles than the instant design. However, when mounting things on a tube you should keep in mind that the mounting surface itself is a pivot axis means. Therefore, you only need one other axis to do cover almost all angles. For most of us, we only need an angle that shows some of the interior and the track outside the windshield. I am no exception. Additionally, if I wanted to run another camera at an angle that the roll bar mount cannot do, I can run my lipstick-type camera with my suction mount. Regardless, any shortcomings of this design is overcome by the sheer simplicity of this mount and more importantly, by its low cost.

Things you need
#5 Conduit Hanger - (a.k.a. pipe hanger, pipe clamp)
Targus 6" Table-Top Tripod
M4x.70x16 machine screw
Optional but recommended: 
Small piece of pipe insulation or strips of rubber (1 inch thick donut)
Two small rubber/neoprene washers

First, unscrew the sigle screw on the bottom of the swivel where the tripod legs meet. Two plates and a small o-ring will pop out, along with all of the legs. Save these items.
Optional step: Remove the adjustment bolt and nut in your clamp and paint it to your favorite color. It will see heavy use so I recommend using something really tough like rustoleum black primer. I painted mine red for that ricer look.

Second, screw in the clamp to the swivel using M4 screw and the plates. You can toss the o-ring and not use any rubber washers, but I used them in hopes of some vibration isolation. Loc-tite is an option, but to keep the screw in place while being subject to heavy vibration, I recommend using the o-ring and neoprene washers. Although the bulk of the vibration absorption should happen at the clamp, I think the use of these rubber parts may even help improve picture quality.

Here is the order I used: Swivel | O-ring | Plate | Neoprane Washer | Clamp | Neoprane Washer | Screw head

This order made the most sense to me. But whatever you do, keep the o-ring. It compresses as you tighten the screw, which makes the operation of the tightening knob which you use to secure the swivel much easier.

Third, install the roll bar mount. For a more complete product, you could glue in rubber strips to the inside of the clamp. I am just going to cut a piece of pipe insulation and mount the mount over it. NOTE: I will upload a picture of the roll bar mount installed shortly.

Simple! Best part is all of this only costs $12 after tax.

Credit: I did an internet search to find this design. It is not my idea; I'd like to credit user "tabasco" from r3vlimited.com forums for this idea. I almost always ask permission to post any information or picture regardless of existing copyright, but this time I haven't. Also, thanks Matt for setting my head straight..

PS: Bonilla interview is still pending, confirmed by him!

Update: I recommend using a better ball head/pan head. This ball head is a bit too particular. The ball head housing is made of aluminum, and the screw is made of steel. So if you tighten it too much, it will strip. If it is too loose, the ball head doesn't secure itself. Keep this in mind when tightening the screw so you will not strip the threads of the housing! I recommend using another ball head. 


Here are some recommendations: Walk-mart sells the Targus Digital Camera Accessory kit which includes a similar tabletop tripod, camera pouch, camera cleaning kit and LCD protectors for ten dollars.. The tripod isn't as high quality as this one, but the ball head looks more solid. I haven't tried it yet. Or you can just buy a good one from your local camera supply store.

Also, I recommend using rubber for the mount's vibration isolators. The pipe insulation is not grippy enough.